Runway: Elie Saab Haute Couture A/W 13/14

Like Elie Saab’s couture collections, eveningwear was the sole focus for this season. Inspiration for the colour palette was taken from jewels, as ruby, emerald and sapphire gowns were encrusted with the label’s trademark elaborate beading. Silhouettes were mostly soft, creating elegance and sophistication, while intricate lace upheld the feminine aspect true to Saab’s signature style.

Runway: Maison Martin Margiela Haute Couture A/W 13/14

Maison Martin Margiela took a very artistic approach for his latest couture collection. Mixing old with new, vintage fabrics were restored and reworked giving a new lease of life to the clothes. One of the standout pieces consisted of an embroidered Art Nouveau curtain which was placed over a pink satin gown. My favourite look of the collection was a voluminous jacket which was recreated from a powder blue fifties prom dress with vintage fabric flowers stitched to the hem. The brand’s signature face masks continued the decorative approach and were adorned with sequins and beads.

Runway: Chanel Haute Couture A/W 13/14

For Chanel’s latest Haute Couture show, the infamous Grand Palais in Paris was transformed into a derelict theatre with crumbling walls and disintegrated curtains which when pulled back, revealed a futuristic backdrop of somewhere in the Middle East. The idea behind the set was to blend the old with the new, using fashion to do so.Shapes and styles were seen in the form of dropped waists, layered flared skirts, and slim jackets. While traditional periodic silhouettes that evoked Victorian and Edwardian times, were seen alongside ultra futuristic fabrics.Other features included micro chequerboard detailing, an abundance of sequins and wide waist-clinching belts, not to mention the thigh-high boot/legging with accessorised every outfit. Above are just some of my favourite looks this season.

London Fashion Week A/W 13 - Mulberry

 

Image Source: vogue.co.uk

Mulberry is always the most anticipated show at LFW, partly because of their fabulous 'FROW' and partly because of the model pup that is sent down the runway each season. For autumn/winter 13, sophistication was given a contemporary feel with oversized puff sleeves, leather cape jackets and a pastel pink longline tailored jacket. Layering featured heavily along with proportion play when cropped trousers were teamed with above the knee dresses and skater skirts.

London Fashion Week A/W 13 - House of Holland

Image Source: vogue.co.uk

Psychedelic prints in vibrant colours of pink, teal and lime, made for a strong 70s inspired collection at House of Holland this season. Throughout the show the 70s theme was contrasted with the year of 1989 with stonewash denim, martini-glass prints, all over embroidered knitwear and boxy silhouettes. Another playful collection from Holland.

London Fashion Week A/W 13 - Burberry

Image Source: vogue.co.uk

So happy Chrstopher Bailey went own a wilder and sexier route for autumn/winter 13. Of course the signature trenches were there, however this year they were adorned with metal embellishment, fringing, and seen in neoprene fabrics with belted waists, giving the audience a more futuristic take on the staple garment. Pencil skirts were seen in metallic snakeskin, and sexy transluscent rubber - something Cara Delvigne models only too well, with a leopard print t-shirt and high-waisted heart print briefs - my favourite look from the collection. With a collection entitled "Trench kisses", it's only right that all over love heart prints featured on a number of garments, from the previously mentioned briefs, to bags, to skirts, to dresses and of course the trench coat.

Rihanna X River Island

I'm not a huge fan of Rihanna anymore or River Island for that matter, however I adore the 90s, so I'm in love with her collection inspired by the decade. Simple spaghetti strap dresses with thigh-high splits, black bralets worn as tops, a denim dungaree-style top with matching jeans - I want it all! Rihanna's own style obviously influenced the collection with high neck tops and maxi skirts, baseball jackets and of course mesh. Hoping I can get my hands on some of these products when the collection launches on March 5.

London Fashion Week A/W 13 - Issa

Well I'm a little bit in love with Issa's new collection. With a palette comprised of navy, mustard, brown and burnt orange, and with fringing, feathers and embroidery - the native American feel was impossible to miss. Not the mention the bhoemian style spotted on the hottest supermodel right now - Cara Delvigne, in the form of a sheer maxi in coffee brown and black tones.

New York Fashion Week A/W 13/14 - Rodarte

Image source: vogue.co.uk

During Rodarte's A/W 13/14 show we were taken through the Mulleavy sister's person story with a collection inspired by their home town Santa Cruz in California. Kate & Laura Mulleavy's collection showed gorgeous tie-dye prints, cut out swimsuits and contrasting sheer and matte panelling. Staple winter knitwear was seen in the form of a matching two piece jumper and skirt in a multi-colour pattern with crystal adornment and black fringing. 

New York Fashion Week A/W 13/14 - 3.1 Phillip Lim

Image source: vogue.co.uk

'Biker' and 'grunge' are key themes for Phillip Lim's latest collection. With an abundance of leather in everything from pleated mini skirts, oversized sweaters and loose-fit trousers, in shades of buttery toffee, jet black and olive green - this collection is without a doubt my favourite show from NYFW so far. Multiple layering ensured practicality, while badges handmade by Lim adorned light wash denim jeans and a matching jacket - proving to be the standout piece from the entire collection. 

New York Fashion Week - Oscar de la Renta

Image source: vogue.co.uk

While most people may have expected an Oscar de la Renta collaboration with John Galliano for autumn/winter 13/14, the collection remained true to de la Renta's style through and through. With Galliano spending three weeks in de la Renta's workshop as part of his comeback to fashion, there were, unsurprisingly, subtle hints of Galliano's approach with heavy smoked eyes and cinched waists to name a few. Ultimately, however, de la Renta's signature style remained dominant with elegance, sophistication and class. 

SS12 Fashion Weeks: Citrus Hues

Citrus-infused colour palettes are key for spring/summer 12, used in abundance at New York's, London's and Milan's fashion weeks. Bold orange dominated New York Fashion Week, while acid yellow was added at London's event. Lemon and tangerine remained strong in Milan, with the introduction of lime green in both sherbet and vibrant shades. 

New York Fashion Week: Jil Stuart, Jenny Packham, Charlotte Ronson

 London Fashion Week: Emilio de la Morena, Nicole Farhi, Osman

Milan Fashion Week: Alberta Ferretti, Iceberg, Jo No Fui

Image source: style.com

MFW SS12: The Great Gatsby

A key trend emerging from Milan Fashion Week has got to be 1920s silhouettes. With the release of Baz Luhrmann's adaptation of F. Scott Fitzgerald's 'The Great Gatsby' due next year it's hardly surprising that a wealth of designers have opted for a flapper girl aesthetic, with an abundance of fringed skirts spotted. Metallic gold, black lace and geometric prints appear from the likes of Gucci, Roberto Cavalli and Etro, referencing the glamour of the era. 

Gucci, Etro, Roberto Cavalli

Image source: style.com

LFW SS12: Ashish

Yes Ashish, once again you have proven yourself worthy of my 'one of my favourite designer' titles. For spring/summer 12, a reference to Van Gogh is blatant with oversized sunflower prints. An ultra contemporary style remain's Ashish's signature, with sequins, bold accents and all over brave prints appearing yet again. Chunky working boots are romanticised with pretty daisies-  something I seem to remember seeing at JW Anderson's A/W 10/11 show. Anyhow, I absolutely love the dark vampy lipstick and equally dark block fringe of the model below. Think I'm gonna try and adopt a similar style at the weekend. 

LFW SS12: Topshop Unique

Topshop Unique's collection is always one of the show's I most look forward to - they always seem to get it spot on. This season the show channelled Egyptian glamour, paying homage to Elizabeth Taylor's performance in Cleopatra. Shimmering gold, geometric prints and black sequins translated an authentic Egyptian feel, while oversized hoodies, baseball caps and chambray-style tracksuits added an urban vibe. A strong collection that perfectly met it's "modern Egyptian Queen in urban London" aesthetic.

LFW SS12: Ada Zanditon

On the Friday of London Fashion Week, I was invited along to the presentation of Ada Zanditon's spring/summer 12 collection Poseisus, accompanied by the screening of a short film inspired by the collection in collaboration with film makers Andrew and William Ho.Before we were seated, two models strutted up and down the corridor where the queue had formed, showcasing Zanditon's collection. Once inside, the visual began. The film depicts the metamorphic journey of Poseisus transposed through the urban landscape, beginning in London and making her way towards the tropical shores of Haiti. The monochrome background that opens the show slowly becomes injected with colour as the subject nears Haiti. As the colours turn brighter and the sounds become louder, you see Poseisus emerge as a seahorse. The influence of the seahorse is evident in the collection’s sculptural silhouettes, reflective also of the designer’s time spent working at both Alexander McQueen and Gareth Pugh. 

LFW SS12: Louise Amstrup

On Friday evening, I went along to Louise Amstrup's SS12 presentation, held in an exclusive private members fashion boutique in Mayfair. Guests mingled within the intimate space, drinking the complimentary champagne offered upon arrival. I was pretty mesmerised by Amstrup's beautiful collection. Inspired by the hot summer afternoons of New York, it plays homage to both the city and the "strong yet playful women who inhabit it", taking the character of Iris in 1976's Taxi Driver as her protagonist. 

An overall 1970s silhouette is key, epitomized in a flared silk trouser and floaty silk shirt, both of which feature collage-style print constructed from signature New York motifs. Warm orange, sandy peach, lilac, asphalt blue and white make up the palette of sun-bleached hues, drawing further on the summery New York feel.